Yesterday we went to the Ismaili Center in the city, which is a Center for education and prayer for Ismaili Muslims. Currently there are five in use worldwide, with a sixth being built in Canada. Of course this was one of the days where I forgot my camera, which turned out to be okay since we were not allowed pictures inside anyway. We chartered a public bus, which seems to be the preferred method of group transport here for the program, and on the way passed some really interesting buildings. More on that later!
The Ismaili Center was absolutely beautiful. It had four sides: administrative, social, religious, and educational. Before the official tour I walked around a bit. There were various miniature patterns on the walls, each one different and clearly hand-painted. We had a choice of tour in English, Russian or Tajiki; I chose Tajiki and am glad I did. Not only did I get a crash course in quick speaking - our tour guide was a teenaged girl who was dressed for a dinner date - but there was an Iranian family on vacation that asked questions about everything there. I don't think they understood the Tajiki accent very well, but they brought up a lot of interesting points, and we got an impromptu lesson in the Shia imams from them in the prayer room. Speaking of, it was absolutely gorgeous. There were very high ceilings and writing around the tops of the walls and on the wall behind a podium. I was surprised that I could read a lot of the names and words written in block script. It was a really interesting and fairly educational experience.
Afterward, we went to the soon-to-be largest teahouse in the world. The foreman took us through parts of this huge structure (again no pictures allowed) and we saw some really beautiful art inside. We went to the Paradise Palace which had lots of stone art pieces and a view of the flag from last week. It is really something already and will be even better when it is done.
After the teahouse we went to a minifair and I rode the ferris wheel. Never doing that again.
After the minifair, we went to the Hyatt to get lunch. I had a sandwich with bacon and fries and it was delicious (and not as expensive as I thought it would be)! We used the WiFi for a while and enjoyed the availability of Western toilets. Then we went to the bus stop to head home.
Here's the thing about getting around in Dushanbe:
If you are waiting for the bus, prepare to wait for a while. There are vans that run the city bus routes more often, but are more expensive and have a bunch of people piled in. Also, city buses and bus route vans will wait until they think they have enough people worth traveling for before they leave, so even if it comes - there is no schedule, mind you - you can sit at a stop for as long as the driver wants.
If you are in a car, don't bother with a seatbelt, and be prepared to pass people at any time, including while turning on red. Also, do not stop for people, but slow to a crawl for potholes.
Cross the street anytime, anywhere while walking. Don't worry, you'll make it.
Anyway, that is all for today. I will talk about the American Corner tomorrow!
(For a more descriptive post about driving in Tajikistan refer to my roommate's blog: Dushanbe Days)
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