Yesterday we went to the Ismaili Center in the city, which is a Center for education and prayer for Ismaili Muslims. Currently there are five in use worldwide, with a sixth being built in Canada. Of course this was one of the days where I forgot my camera, which turned out to be okay since we were not allowed pictures inside anyway. We chartered a public bus, which seems to be the preferred method of group transport here for the program, and on the way passed some really interesting buildings. More on that later!
The Ismaili Center was absolutely beautiful. It had four sides: administrative, social, religious, and educational. Before the official tour I walked around a bit. There were various miniature patterns on the walls, each one different and clearly hand-painted. We had a choice of tour in English, Russian or Tajiki; I chose Tajiki and am glad I did. Not only did I get a crash course in quick speaking - our tour guide was a teenaged girl who was dressed for a dinner date - but there was an Iranian family on vacation that asked questions about everything there. I don't think they understood the Tajiki accent very well, but they brought up a lot of interesting points, and we got an impromptu lesson in the Shia imams from them in the prayer room. Speaking of, it was absolutely gorgeous. There were very high ceilings and writing around the tops of the walls and on the wall behind a podium. I was surprised that I could read a lot of the names and words written in block script. It was a really interesting and fairly educational experience.
Afterward, we went to the soon-to-be largest teahouse in the world. The foreman took us through parts of this huge structure (again no pictures allowed) and we saw some really beautiful art inside. We went to the Paradise Palace which had lots of stone art pieces and a view of the flag from last week. It is really something already and will be even better when it is done.
After the teahouse we went to a minifair and I rode the ferris wheel. Never doing that again.
After the minifair, we went to the Hyatt to get lunch. I had a sandwich with bacon and fries and it was delicious (and not as expensive as I thought it would be)! We used the WiFi for a while and enjoyed the availability of Western toilets. Then we went to the bus stop to head home.
Here's the thing about getting around in Dushanbe:
If you are waiting for the bus, prepare to wait for a while. There are vans that run the city bus routes more often, but are more expensive and have a bunch of people piled in. Also, city buses and bus route vans will wait until they think they have enough people worth traveling for before they leave, so even if it comes - there is no schedule, mind you - you can sit at a stop for as long as the driver wants.
If you are in a car, don't bother with a seatbelt, and be prepared to pass people at any time, including while turning on red. Also, do not stop for people, but slow to a crawl for potholes.
Cross the street anytime, anywhere while walking. Don't worry, you'll make it.
Anyway, that is all for today. I will talk about the American Corner tomorrow!
(For a more descriptive post about driving in Tajikistan refer to my roommate's blog: Dushanbe Days)
Monday, July 30, 2012
Sunday, July 29, 2012
Khanevaadeye man: Why Sharif is the funniest man in Tajikistan
The last couple days have been really busy, between excursions, visiting the bazaar, and family time. Thursday night the family took Nick and me to see the official flag in the world, which was actually pretty busy. Since our host family's extended family down the street has CLI students as well, 14 of us piled into 2 cars and had a great time. Afterward they took us out for Turkish ice cream and baklava, which was really sweet - literally - and lots of food after the huge dinner they'd already fed us. My favorite part was when a little boy, no more than 4, asked to shake my hand. It is really interesting to me that people are fascinated by me being black; it's very different and much more inviting than back home. I know it sounds weird, but trust me, it's awesome.
Outside of class and a bit of shopping, Friday is kind of a blur. Saturday, however, was a great day of rest. We went out to a place called Romit, which is essentially a mountain respite with hiking, volleyball, basketball, and swimming. We had an area near a stream, and after carrying melons and drinks up and down a steep and dangerous path, I sat at the same table and played chess for 5 hours, skipping all the other activities. It was really relaxing to have a day off from school and work, and a day off from speaking Farsi and Tajiki. While I am really enjoying the speaking experience, it does wear me down a bit to switch back and forth between those and English, and it can be stressful to feel unable to express myself in Farsi/Tajiki. When I woke up today, though, I felt refreshed, so I think the break was worth it. So far, I've avoided the headache that normally comes along, so that's good.
Now: Sharif.
Our family is seemingly semi-traditional. Every morning they get up before sunrise to eat (remember, it's Ramadan) and Sharif is normally just leaving when I wake up. Nick gets up a bit later, so I have time to do homework, shower, and eat. Shahnoza, our host mother, makes us breakfast every morning, which is 1) delicious and 2) slightly varied daily. The three kids are normally up and about when we leave - BoboJan is 7, Zamirah is 6 and Mohamet is 3. They're most definitely cute, and most definitely full of way too much energy for me when we get home from class. They ignored us the first few days; now it seems they can't get enough of us!
In the evenings, Sharif is normally waiting for us to get in while Shahnoza is making dinner. We sit and chat before and during dinner. Sharif always eats with us; sometimes Shahnoza will as well if the kids have already eaten. Sharif is always cracking jokes and is great with wordplay; often, Nick and I won't realize he cracked a joke for a couple seconds, and he's already smirking with glee. He is really good about expalining the roots of words and which words to use in Farsi or Tajiki, and he delivers them all with a joke when he can. He's very patient with us, but isn't afraid to make jokes about us, and we're starting to learn how to dish back, which makes for loads of fun. I thought I would want to be out exploring most of the time here, but I find myself looking forward to getting home at the end of the day! Yesterday, I had a long talk with his father, who is just as funny and told me jokes and stories in Tajiki. I can finally see where Sharif gets it!
It's also really cool being in such a loving family. I could tell from the first day that the family is very close, and Sharif and Shahnoza always make time to hang out with their kids in the evening, even if it's just for a little bit. They joke around and play all the time, which is fun to see. Also, every once in a while Sharif will yell out a phrase in English or Tajiki, which in context are hilarious. Example: I was dancing in the car on the way to the flag, and Sharif shouted: "Rrrrrrraqs!" which is the Persian word for dance. Everyone in the car was cracking up. Then the driver started to speed up and Sharif yelled, "Let's go!" Good times, indeed.
*****
This post has been sitting for a couple days now, and lots has happened since I started it. Hopefully, I can get a toofer later on in the afternoon for you! For now, I am heading to the American Corner at the National Library to hold a Poetry Club in English for the local kids. I'll let you know how it goes!
Outside of class and a bit of shopping, Friday is kind of a blur. Saturday, however, was a great day of rest. We went out to a place called Romit, which is essentially a mountain respite with hiking, volleyball, basketball, and swimming. We had an area near a stream, and after carrying melons and drinks up and down a steep and dangerous path, I sat at the same table and played chess for 5 hours, skipping all the other activities. It was really relaxing to have a day off from school and work, and a day off from speaking Farsi and Tajiki. While I am really enjoying the speaking experience, it does wear me down a bit to switch back and forth between those and English, and it can be stressful to feel unable to express myself in Farsi/Tajiki. When I woke up today, though, I felt refreshed, so I think the break was worth it. So far, I've avoided the headache that normally comes along, so that's good.
Now: Sharif.
Our family is seemingly semi-traditional. Every morning they get up before sunrise to eat (remember, it's Ramadan) and Sharif is normally just leaving when I wake up. Nick gets up a bit later, so I have time to do homework, shower, and eat. Shahnoza, our host mother, makes us breakfast every morning, which is 1) delicious and 2) slightly varied daily. The three kids are normally up and about when we leave - BoboJan is 7, Zamirah is 6 and Mohamet is 3. They're most definitely cute, and most definitely full of way too much energy for me when we get home from class. They ignored us the first few days; now it seems they can't get enough of us!
In the evenings, Sharif is normally waiting for us to get in while Shahnoza is making dinner. We sit and chat before and during dinner. Sharif always eats with us; sometimes Shahnoza will as well if the kids have already eaten. Sharif is always cracking jokes and is great with wordplay; often, Nick and I won't realize he cracked a joke for a couple seconds, and he's already smirking with glee. He is really good about expalining the roots of words and which words to use in Farsi or Tajiki, and he delivers them all with a joke when he can. He's very patient with us, but isn't afraid to make jokes about us, and we're starting to learn how to dish back, which makes for loads of fun. I thought I would want to be out exploring most of the time here, but I find myself looking forward to getting home at the end of the day! Yesterday, I had a long talk with his father, who is just as funny and told me jokes and stories in Tajiki. I can finally see where Sharif gets it!
It's also really cool being in such a loving family. I could tell from the first day that the family is very close, and Sharif and Shahnoza always make time to hang out with their kids in the evening, even if it's just for a little bit. They joke around and play all the time, which is fun to see. Also, every once in a while Sharif will yell out a phrase in English or Tajiki, which in context are hilarious. Example: I was dancing in the car on the way to the flag, and Sharif shouted: "Rrrrrrraqs!" which is the Persian word for dance. Everyone in the car was cracking up. Then the driver started to speed up and Sharif yelled, "Let's go!" Good times, indeed.
*****
This post has been sitting for a couple days now, and lots has happened since I started it. Hopefully, I can get a toofer later on in the afternoon for you! For now, I am heading to the American Corner at the National Library to hold a Poetry Club in English for the local kids. I'll let you know how it goes!
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Ruze...um...what day is it again?
Yesterday was a very, very busy day in Dushanbe for us! In class we spent some time singing Persian songs and then read a couple passages on the fly from a book our professor brought. It was pretty amazing. We had just a few minutes to prepare a section, and then went right through, and I was surprised at how much I understood on the first go around. Nick and Mark seem to be having a good time in class as well, which is great because it makes for a pleasant learning experience. Also, I've said it before and I'll say it again: our professor is a rockstar.
After the morning class, we went and found a great restaurant right around the corner from the university. We had chicken kabobs with onions and 'kompot' (a fruit juice-type drink that is very popular here) and had a conversation in Farsi about learning Farsi and Tajik. The server came up to us before we left and asked to have a picture with us, probably because we were the strangest group of people sitting at a table at that restaurant. Besides me - and you should know that they do not see many black people here, so that is a treat in itself - we had Nick, Jill, Dietta and Mina, meaning a normal height white man, a tall white woman, a short white woman, and an Iranian woman. I think they were especially surprised that we were speaking their language. It was all very entertaining, and the great food made it even better.
After preparing a 10-minute presentation on Afghanistan, I went with the group to the American Corner in Tajikistan which runs through the embassy. We spoke with Nicole Bayer, who explained to us how the center works, and gave a run-through of all the programming they do. There are various clubs on different days, such as the Movie Club (which was yesterday), Writing Club, Music Club, etc. I am hoping to start a Poetry Club and possibly a Chess Club which will run until we leave; hopefully I'll be able to get at least some kids interested. At any rate, the kids there spoke fantastic English, and were interested in everything American they could find. It is very interesting since much of the information shown here about the US is a bit skewed by the Russian media, and so the American Corner gives a different perspective on how things are back home.
After the embassy we returned home for a great dinner with our family. Our host father's father was in town as a guest last night, and Nick and I had a long conversation with him about Persian poetry and other things. Both he and Sharif are hilarious, and listening to the two of them together is lots of fun and really interesting. I feel like I am learning just as much at home as I do in class, if not more. Every night he is really good about teaching us new words and getting us to speak on different topics. We also spend time with the extended family nightly, so there's lots to speak of and learn. Just be prepared to answer the question "Are you married?" multiple times a day if you're here, and if not, to explain why not.
I am really, really enjoying my time here. It's only day 4 and I already know my Farsi (and inadvertently my Tajiki) is getting better. The most interesting thing I've noticed about the people is being stared at; people just openly look at us as we walk down the street, especially at me (I know, so beautiful, I can't stop either). I've found people smile and get excited once I start speaking with them, and they immediately start teaching me new things about the language, so I've found it a good thing that I stand out. My language skills are getting the benefit, so it's worth it!
I think tomorrow I will start blogging subject by subject, because each day is so full and there's just no way I can realistically write about everything. I am sure I am missing so much but I hope to make up for it. Also, I promise AS SOON AS I can get to a computer fast enough, I will start with the akaas (pictures) so you can see all the wonderful things we do. Until next time!
After the morning class, we went and found a great restaurant right around the corner from the university. We had chicken kabobs with onions and 'kompot' (a fruit juice-type drink that is very popular here) and had a conversation in Farsi about learning Farsi and Tajik. The server came up to us before we left and asked to have a picture with us, probably because we were the strangest group of people sitting at a table at that restaurant. Besides me - and you should know that they do not see many black people here, so that is a treat in itself - we had Nick, Jill, Dietta and Mina, meaning a normal height white man, a tall white woman, a short white woman, and an Iranian woman. I think they were especially surprised that we were speaking their language. It was all very entertaining, and the great food made it even better.
After preparing a 10-minute presentation on Afghanistan, I went with the group to the American Corner in Tajikistan which runs through the embassy. We spoke with Nicole Bayer, who explained to us how the center works, and gave a run-through of all the programming they do. There are various clubs on different days, such as the Movie Club (which was yesterday), Writing Club, Music Club, etc. I am hoping to start a Poetry Club and possibly a Chess Club which will run until we leave; hopefully I'll be able to get at least some kids interested. At any rate, the kids there spoke fantastic English, and were interested in everything American they could find. It is very interesting since much of the information shown here about the US is a bit skewed by the Russian media, and so the American Corner gives a different perspective on how things are back home.
After the embassy we returned home for a great dinner with our family. Our host father's father was in town as a guest last night, and Nick and I had a long conversation with him about Persian poetry and other things. Both he and Sharif are hilarious, and listening to the two of them together is lots of fun and really interesting. I feel like I am learning just as much at home as I do in class, if not more. Every night he is really good about teaching us new words and getting us to speak on different topics. We also spend time with the extended family nightly, so there's lots to speak of and learn. Just be prepared to answer the question "Are you married?" multiple times a day if you're here, and if not, to explain why not.
I am really, really enjoying my time here. It's only day 4 and I already know my Farsi (and inadvertently my Tajiki) is getting better. The most interesting thing I've noticed about the people is being stared at; people just openly look at us as we walk down the street, especially at me (I know, so beautiful, I can't stop either). I've found people smile and get excited once I start speaking with them, and they immediately start teaching me new things about the language, so I've found it a good thing that I stand out. My language skills are getting the benefit, so it's worth it!
I think tomorrow I will start blogging subject by subject, because each day is so full and there's just no way I can realistically write about everything. I am sure I am missing so much but I hope to make up for it. Also, I promise AS SOON AS I can get to a computer fast enough, I will start with the akaas (pictures) so you can see all the wonderful things we do. Until next time!
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Ruze dovom - Day Two!
We've found a teahouse! It's a great place to study and it's within walking distance of campus and of the house. I am finding my way around the city very easily and have found I am able to both get around and negotiate with sellers. All of the time spent in class practicing is kicking in, and the people here are both very surprised and very happy to speak Persian with me. I do have to explain sometimes that I don't speak Tajiki but everyone has been incredibly accomodating.
Since I don't have as much time on here as I thought I might today, I will give a couple quick stories and then leave the rest for (hopefully!) tomorrow.
The cabbie we found yesterday goes by the name of "Jackie Number 1." Not Jackie, not Jack - Jackie Number 1. He is the most ridiculous cab driver I have ever met. We were looking for a hookah house and went to a hotel, but it wasn't there. Jackie Number One, however, was, and he kept trying to get us in his cab. Finally, we agreed, and it was the best decision we've made here thus far. Not only are his rates great, he is very entertaining and full of knowledge of the city. He showed us pictures of all his other customers from around the world. He also kept having arguments in multiple languages with other drivers. We will definitely be using him again.
Last night we couldn't find the number for Jill's home family, and she couldn't remember how to get back home, so she had dinner with us at our host family's place. Our host father explained why we use the right hand and not the left, and that we need to exercise in order to be in good health. It was a really great experience and Sharif is a great host, as is Shahnova, who made RIDICULOUSLY good food. I look forward to lots more meals and other experiences. Now, I must have dinner, so I bid you adieu!
Since I don't have as much time on here as I thought I might today, I will give a couple quick stories and then leave the rest for (hopefully!) tomorrow.
The cabbie we found yesterday goes by the name of "Jackie Number 1." Not Jackie, not Jack - Jackie Number 1. He is the most ridiculous cab driver I have ever met. We were looking for a hookah house and went to a hotel, but it wasn't there. Jackie Number One, however, was, and he kept trying to get us in his cab. Finally, we agreed, and it was the best decision we've made here thus far. Not only are his rates great, he is very entertaining and full of knowledge of the city. He showed us pictures of all his other customers from around the world. He also kept having arguments in multiple languages with other drivers. We will definitely be using him again.
Last night we couldn't find the number for Jill's home family, and she couldn't remember how to get back home, so she had dinner with us at our host family's place. Our host father explained why we use the right hand and not the left, and that we need to exercise in order to be in good health. It was a really great experience and Sharif is a great host, as is Shahnova, who made RIDICULOUSLY good food. I look forward to lots more meals and other experiences. Now, I must have dinner, so I bid you adieu!
Monday, July 23, 2012
Ruzi aval - Day One
DUDES. This city is amazing. We arrived early this morning and got through customs without any problem whatsoever. After going to the house, I had time to shower and change, and then Nick and I hit the streets a couple hours before our first meeting. We found a bazaar and a mall, as well as a cool cafe close to our house. We met a Canadian man who speaks Dari and talked with him at the cafe for a bit which was really interesting. There are so many other things I want to tell! However, I am on an iPhone and don't have time right now. We are headed back to the house, and hopefully will ride back with our new favorite cabbie, Jackie Number One. Tomorrow, the saga continues! Be prepared for pictures.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Ready to leave!
At my Aunt's house in New York, getting ready to leave for JFK. I can't believe it's happening, but in just under 24 hours I will be in Dushanbe, Tajikistan! The drive yesterday from Tempe to Longmont really drained me, but I had a good sleep at Joe and Ellen's place and the flight to NYC today was easy enough. I have a short layover in Istanbul tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I'll have enough time to actually visit Istanbul! If not, kicking it in the Turkish lounge for free food with Bobo and the crew. Until later!
Friday, July 20, 2012
Visas came in. It's happening.
Exams are over and it's time to head out to Colorado in just a few hours! Took a long nap today, woke up for Batman, and now I'm heading back to bed for a shorter nap before the long drive. I have everything I need (I hope!) and I am really excited to get going! Dushanbe 2012!
Exams are over and it's time to head out to Colorado in just a few hours! Took a long nap today, woke up for Batman, and now I'm heading back to bed for a shorter nap before the long drive. I have everything I need (I hope!) and I am really excited to get going! Dushanbe 2012!
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
CLI is over already...how did that happen?
So CLI is coming to a close, and I am very excited to head out on Saturday! After the exam tomorrow morning, I will be packing up my room, heading to afternoon classes, and then sleeping before the midnight showing of The Dark Knight Rises (as if I'd miss THAT). Friday is the long drive to Colorado to leave my car, and a quick stop at Joe's for the night before flying to JFK. Visit the fam, say what up, and bam - overseas for a month.
I just hope we get our visas tomorrow as promised.
I just hope we get our visas tomorrow as promised.
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